terça-feira, 16 de novembro de 2010
Andy Irons Paddle-out Tribute at the Huntington Beach Pier, November 14, 2010
For those of you who were not able to attend, here's a quick clip of today's paddle-out in honor of Andy Irons on the south side of the Huntington Beach Pier
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Cinzas de Andy Irons lançadas ao mar
O funeral do tricampeão mundial Andy Irons aconteceu no último domingo (14/11) na praia de Pine Trees, Hanalei Bay, ilha de Kauai, Hawaii, onde o atleta cresceu e surfou desde garoto.
O irmão mais novo Bruce Irons comandou cerca de 1.000 amigos que remaram para o outside durante a homenagem, enquanto uma canoa levou a esposa Lyndie Irons e a família de Andy.
Irons é o havaiano que mais vezes conquistou o título mundial - três vezes consecutivas de 2002 a 2004. Desde a data de sua morte (2/11), homenagens acontecem nos quatro cantos do mundo.
No Hawaii, Andy Irons era considerado uma lenda do surf. Tetracampeão da Tríplice Coroa Havaiana (título que reúne as três últimas etapas do circuito mundial), o filho de Kauai travou duelos inesquecíveis com Kelly Slater nas etapas do Pipe Masters, uma das mais tradicionais do Tour.
Em Kauai, Andy mantinha residência fixa com sua esposa Lyndie, e que está grávida de oito meses, e promovia anualmente junto com o irmão caçula, Bruce, o Irons Brothers Pine Trees Classic, uma das competições mais importantes da ilha para a revelação de novos talentos do surf local.
Vídeo Prickett Films
Familiares, amigos e fãs reuniram-se na praia de Hanalei, no Havai, para homenagear Andy Irons, falecido no início do mês
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O irmão mais novo Bruce Irons comandou cerca de 1.000 amigos que remaram para o outside durante a homenagem, enquanto uma canoa levou a esposa Lyndie Irons e a família de Andy.
Irons é o havaiano que mais vezes conquistou o título mundial - três vezes consecutivas de 2002 a 2004. Desde a data de sua morte (2/11), homenagens acontecem nos quatro cantos do mundo.
No Hawaii, Andy Irons era considerado uma lenda do surf. Tetracampeão da Tríplice Coroa Havaiana (título que reúne as três últimas etapas do circuito mundial), o filho de Kauai travou duelos inesquecíveis com Kelly Slater nas etapas do Pipe Masters, uma das mais tradicionais do Tour.
Em Kauai, Andy mantinha residência fixa com sua esposa Lyndie, e que está grávida de oito meses, e promovia anualmente junto com o irmão caçula, Bruce, o Irons Brothers Pine Trees Classic, uma das competições mais importantes da ilha para a revelação de novos talentos do surf local.
Vídeo Prickett Films
Familiares, amigos e fãs reuniram-se na praia de Hanalei, no Havai, para homenagear Andy Irons, falecido no início do mês
Milhares de pessoas juntaram-se à família de Andy Irons numa homenagem ao tricampeão mundial de surf falecido a 2 deste mês, quando viajava de Porto Rico para o Havai, onde nasceu.
Na praia da Hanalei, na ilha de Kauai, as cinzas de Irons foram lançadas ao mar pelos familiares e amigos do havaino. Ao mesmo tempo flores eram atiradas de um helicóptero.
Cerimónias idênticas foram realizadas em praias na Europa, na Austrália, em vários locais do continente dos Estados Unidos e no Brasil.
A mulher de Irons, Lyndie, que está grávida de oito meses, esteve presente na homenagem, juntamente com o irmão mais novo do surfista, Bruce, os pais e amigos íntimos.
Irons, que esteve em Portugal em Outubro para participar na etapa nacional do Mundial de surf disputada em Peniche, faleceu aos 32 anos.
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sábado, 6 de novembro de 2010
Andy Irons 3 X World Surfing Champion died
O tricampeão mundial Andy Irons, 32, faleceu nesta terça-feira (2/11) quando voltava ao Hawaii depois de nem disputar sua bateria do Rip Curl Pro Search em Porto Rico.
Andy havia sido diagnosticado com Dengue durante sua curta estadia em Porto Rico. Fraco demais, Andy não apareceu para as suas baterias do primeiro e segundo round da nona etapa do mundial de surf que acontece na ilha caribenha.
De acordo com o diretor da Associação dos surfistas profissionais Renato Hickel, Andy foi tratado por um médico particular que ministrou soro com o objetivo de reidratar o surfista. Irons decidiu voltar para o Havai com para se tratar com seu médico particular, mas antes fez escalas em Miami e Dallas.
Informações apontam que em Miami Andy foi outra vez atendido por um médico que ministrou soro no surfista. Durante o voo de Miami para Dallas Irons vomitou muito e foi impedido de embarcar para o Havaí.
O surfista se hospedou no Hotel Grand Hyatt, Dallas/Forth Worth às 6h59 do dia 1º de novembro.
No dia seguinte, após não atender ligações do serviço despertador, Andy foi encontrado morto em seu quarto de hotel. Ao contrário de informações anteriores, não foi encontrada em seu quarto o opiáceo sintético Metadona, e sim, um anti-depressivo (Aprazolam) e um remédio para insônia (Zolpidem).
Em uma autópsia preliminar os médicos não conseguiram identificar a causa da morte do surfista. Um teste toxicológico será feito e poderá demorar até três meses para ter seu resultado divulgado.
Andy Irons aka A.I.
3 X World Surfing Champion
From Hanalei, Kauai, Hawaii
24 July 1978 - 2 November 2010
A causa da morte do surfista havaiano ainda não foi oficialmente anunciada, mas de acordo com fontes próximas ao surfista, pode ter sido em decorrência de uma dengue hemorrágica contraída em Portugal e ele foi encontrado morto num hotel de Dallas, Texas (EUA).
O atleta passou mal desde sua chegada a Porto Rico e sequer saiu do hotel.
Depois de não disputar a primeira fase sem dar satisfação à diretoria da ASP, o havaiano explicou o motivo pelo qual não conseguiu ir à praia.
Andy contraiu uma virose em Portugal e seu organismo foi afetado quando chegou a Porto Rico.
O tricampeão mundial teve de abandonar também a repescagem e mal consegue sair do hotel onde está hospedado. Segundo o tour manager da ASP, Renato Hickel, outros surfistas foram atingidos pela virose na etapa lusitana do World Tour.
"O Travis Logie falou que está debilitado há 12 dias e nem conseguiu surfar direito hoje (domingo), na repescagem. Outro foi Owen Wright, que passou mal nos primeiros dias", comenta Hickel.
O clima está bastante tenso em Porto Rico, onde acontece a penúltima etapa do circuito mundial, devido à morte de Andy Irons. Além de família, amigos e uma legião de fãs, o atleta deixa uma esposa grávida de 8 meses.
Família em choque
A história da morte de Andy Irons se torna mais dramática quando olhamos para a sua família. A esposa de Irons, Lyndie está grávida de oito meses e deverá dar a luz a um garoto que se chamará Axel Jason Irons.
O irmão de Andy, Bruce Irons também competiu profissionalmente durante muitos anos e é considerado uma pessoa muito importante no mundo do surfe. Lenda do mundo do surf.
Lenda do surfe
Andy Irons foi o surfista mais dominante durante os anos 2000 conquistando o título mundial em 2002, 2003 e 2004. Além dos títulos mundiais, Andy carregava 19 vitórias no circuito e a marca de ser o único surfista a vencer em todos os lugares por onde a turnê mundial passou.
Além das estatísticas, Andy ficou conhecido por ser o maior adversário de Kelly Slater. Os dois surfistas travaram duelos históricos.
Depois de ficar afastado durante todo o ano de 2009, Andy retornou ao surfe competitivo e gradualmente foi outra vez conquistando espaço.
Recentemente Andy venceu a etapa do Tahiti do mundial de surfe, após mais uma vez superar Kelly Slater nas semifinais.
A Billabong, patrocinadora de Irons, divulgou um boletim para informar a morte do atleta, agradeceu o apoio dos amigos e fãs e fez um pedido pela preservação da privacidade da família. "A família pede para não ser procurada neste momento de perda profunda", diz o texto.
Irons começou sua trajetória campeã na elite do ASP World Tour em 1998 e conseguiu a expressiva marca de 20 títulos na carreira, incluindo quatro conquistas da Tríplice Coroa Havaiana e um título do mundial Júnior.
O veléorio e enterro do surfista será realizado no as 11 horas da manhã dia 14 de novembro (domingo) em Pine Trees no Kauai, Havaí. A cerimônia inclui uma remada ao outside para homenagear seu legado.
Uma segunda homenagem para celebrar sua vida será realizada na abertura do Pipe Masters deste ano. Andy Irons irá deixar saudades à todos e principalmente à sua esposa Lyndie, seu irmão Bruce, seus pais Phil e Danielle e seu filho Axel, que em breve vem ao mundo.
“If you have the possibility of having dengue fever I do not want people using phensic, caphenol, whiz, aspirin, any of the non-steroidals, motrin, ibuprofen, aleve,advil — those are dangerous when there is the possibility of having dengue fever because it worsens bleeding.”~ Health Ministry Barbados
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domingo, 31 de outubro de 2010
Boletín de Surf de los Christian Surfers
Conferencia Groundswell
Alrededor de 185 lideres de 16 naciones asistieron a nuestra 9a. Conferencia Groundswell en Indonesia el mes pasado. Nuestro tema "Cada nación" fue reforzado, ya que actualizamos nuestro mapa mundial tomando en cuenta las muchas naciones surfistas que aun no han sido alcanzadas. Fuimos recibidos con música y una increíble danza nacional. La alabanza a cargo de una banda local estuvo muy buena.
Nuestro orador invitado, Tim Meyers, nos desafio diciendo que el atributo que mas nos define es la presencia de Jesus y que El seria un "rio de agua viva" que traería bendición a las naciones. Nos sentimos inspirados por la historia de Shinko y David Levey de CS Japon, y de Ado en Indonesia, asi como por la historia de Sergio sobre la Casa de Surf de Brasil y la Biblia de Surfers en Portugues. Surfeamos las olas, disfrutamos de la comida y lideres muy ocupados fueron renovados.
Puedes leer, ver y escuchar la conferencia complete en nuestro Blog http://csigroundswell.tumblr.com/. Favor, contactar a tu líder local para consultar la clave para ingresar.
Nuestra 10a. conferencia será en...Hawaii!!! Se llevará a cabo del 4 al 9 de noviembre del 2012.
Agradecemos a aquellos que colaboraron con los gastos de Nacho, Rehgert, Kris, Sergio, Dilsiri entre otros.
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Alrededor de 185 lideres de 16 naciones asistieron a nuestra 9a. Conferencia Groundswell en Indonesia el mes pasado. Nuestro tema "Cada nación" fue reforzado, ya que actualizamos nuestro mapa mundial tomando en cuenta las muchas naciones surfistas que aun no han sido alcanzadas. Fuimos recibidos con música y una increíble danza nacional. La alabanza a cargo de una banda local estuvo muy buena.
Nuestro orador invitado, Tim Meyers, nos desafio diciendo que el atributo que mas nos define es la presencia de Jesus y que El seria un "rio de agua viva" que traería bendición a las naciones. Nos sentimos inspirados por la historia de Shinko y David Levey de CS Japon, y de Ado en Indonesia, asi como por la historia de Sergio sobre la Casa de Surf de Brasil y la Biblia de Surfers en Portugues. Surfeamos las olas, disfrutamos de la comida y lideres muy ocupados fueron renovados.
Puedes leer, ver y escuchar la conferencia complete en nuestro Blog http://csigroundswell.tumblr.com/. Favor, contactar a tu líder local para consultar la clave para ingresar.
Nuestra 10a. conferencia será en...Hawaii!!! Se llevará a cabo del 4 al 9 de noviembre del 2012.
Agradecemos a aquellos que colaboraron con los gastos de Nacho, Rehgert, Kris, Sergio, Dilsiri entre otros.
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Projeto Ondas Surf & Cidadania 2010
Projeto Social: ONG Projeto Ondas Surf & Cidadania Surfando Valores
O bi-campeão brasileiro de Surf, Jocélio de Jesus, o Jojó de Olivença, atleta representante do Brasil no mundo, fundou em 2006 a ONG - Projeto Ondas - com objetivo de retirar crianças e adolescentes da vulnerabilidade social, complementando assim o período educacional destes jovens que estão num turno na escola e no outro no Projeto Ondas.
O objetivo é resgatar esses jovens para uma vida melhor que contribuirá diretamente na cidade/país onde eles vivem.
Em 2010, são 60 crianças e adolescentes inscritos e que estão curtindo dias saudáveis no Projeto Ondas.
Temos uma lista de 131 novos participantes aguardando a expansão do nosso projeto para surfarem com a gente.
Nós trabalhadores desta ONG ficaríamos muito gratos com a sua ajuda.
Vem surfar esta onda de cidadania com a gente!
Contato: www.projetoondas.org
Para doações diretas ao PROJETO ONDAS
CNPJ: 08.996.310/0001-10
BANCO BRADESCO No. 237
AG. 0525-8 End. Av. Puglisi, 315, Guarujá-SP-Brasil, CEP 11410-001
C/C: 82992-7
SWIFT CODE: BBDEBRSPSPO
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quarta-feira, 13 de outubro de 2010
Finnish Surfer looking for waves in Finland
This is a promo about YWAM 50th celebration
and this guy is a Kristitty Surffaaja.
More Info: http://www.ywam.fi
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quinta-feira, 23 de setembro de 2010
ASP World Tour Chaplaincy
Interview with the ASP World Tour Chaplain called Abe Andrews at the Stab Magazine.
Christian values and surf culture are an incongruous mix; what with our history of druggy-druggy, groupie-groupie and professionals who are more than happy for a 2.5 out of Ten Commandments. But Abe says his role as the ASP world tour Chaplain is an important one. The modern incarnation of the sport places considerable pressure on surfers and in many cases, they’re unable to afford the luxury of a confidante travelling the world with them. Abe is who they turn to.
Stab: Describe your job, Abe.
Abe: I support surfers in a practical capacity and in a mental, emotional and spiritual capacity. I empower them in their wellbeing, help them keep a clear state of mind and perform their best on tour.
Whose idea was it?
The ASP approached Christian surfers about having a chaplaincy on tour. They saw a need because of certain issues that have risen up over the years.
Like…
Nothing specific has been said. It’s more the fact that surfers go through burnout at some stages in their life. You can be at the top of the world one day and at the bottom and injured. And it can be a bit dog eat dog.
And who bankrolls it?
I’m paid like a missionary and raise money through people that believe in chaplaincy - people I know, friends that I have, churches that I’ve been to all contribute. Some of the surfers have given me cash to help me out.
Who is one surfer who you’ve helped?
Last year for the Mundaka contest we were at raining, onshore Sopelana. I was standing on the beach and I had just caddied for Josh Kerr. He’d lost his heat and I felt bad for him. Dustin Barca came down and put his board next to me. He didn’t ask me to caddy for him and I started walking off after Kerrzy’s heat. And I thought I should hang around and be there for Dustin. I’d been speaking with him and he was having a hard time being away from his family and had hurt his back really badly or tweaked out his hip. He came in and was in agony. I helped him with his gear up to his car and after that I had a really good relationship with him. After that I saw that it was really important to be with them through those times when no one is there for them. He was thankful that I was there for him when it felt like he had no one, which was good.
How does it work with non-Christians?
The spiritual element of my role is really important but the religious side isn’t. Whatever faith they choose I will empower and encourage them. My directive is to help someone be a better person.
When he's not lending advice to troubled world tour surfers, Abe the ASP Chaplain works as a school teacher on the Gold Coast. Which is where he's honed this quality backhand bottom turn.
So you get people crossing faiths to confide in you?
Some of my best relationships have been guys that are agnostic or come from different faiths. I had a really good relationship with (Brazilian surfer and Muslim) Jihad (Khodr). We got along really well and it was hard not seeing him qualify for this year.
Do surfers talk enough about their problems?
We’re all blokes at the end of the day and we all have our issues with talking about how we feel. Especially when they’re away from their family and their mates are the one’s they’re competing against, so they can’t talk to them because they don’t want to be seen as weak.
Has surfing as a culture encouraged pros to be open about their problems?
The attitude has always been, “She’ll be right, it’s all good, go with the flow.” As it became more professional there is a lot more stress and money at stake. There was a time when you surfed for fun and that was all it was about. Now it is a career for these guys and they’ve grown up from grommets, and sponsored and competing for so long, it’s part of their life. Fifteen years ago it wasn’t as necessary as it is now.
Do you approach them or they come to you?
You can’t go up to talk to anyone and expect them to respect what you’re saying. You have to build up trust. When it comes down to it, they will talk to me when they want to. I don’t have an agenda, I’m not here to impress anyone. A lot of it is being true to myself. I have to make sure I’m not pretending to be something I’m not. You have to be of the scene but not in it. A lot of it is just your walk and how you act, whether at contests, in the surf or at the party. They make up in their own mind whether they’re gonna trust you.
What are the different extremes surfers will talk to you about?
Anything from how their relationships are going with girlfriends and wives to relationship break ups to their own faith journey. And then there are the temptations they come across, like the partying and that scene.
It’s interesting because surf culture has not always been aligned with Christian values.
Surfing has always had this sense of being spiritual. Surfing has a different feeling when you’re in the water to any other experience you have. At the same time, there’s temptation always. I’m not there to tell people what they can and can’t do. I’m there to help them if they hit the rocks. To pick them up and let them know it’s okay.
Do you battle temptation?
It’s at the back of my mind. Being away from your family can be hard when you’re travelling. Being away from my wife can be difficult. Just watching perfect waves go by and not be able to surf them. –
by Jed Smith (stabmag.com)
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Christian values and surf culture are an incongruous mix; what with our history of druggy-druggy, groupie-groupie and professionals who are more than happy for a 2.5 out of Ten Commandments. But Abe says his role as the ASP world tour Chaplain is an important one. The modern incarnation of the sport places considerable pressure on surfers and in many cases, they’re unable to afford the luxury of a confidante travelling the world with them. Abe is who they turn to.
Stab: Describe your job, Abe.
Abe: I support surfers in a practical capacity and in a mental, emotional and spiritual capacity. I empower them in their wellbeing, help them keep a clear state of mind and perform their best on tour.
Whose idea was it?
The ASP approached Christian surfers about having a chaplaincy on tour. They saw a need because of certain issues that have risen up over the years.
Like…
Nothing specific has been said. It’s more the fact that surfers go through burnout at some stages in their life. You can be at the top of the world one day and at the bottom and injured. And it can be a bit dog eat dog.
And who bankrolls it?
I’m paid like a missionary and raise money through people that believe in chaplaincy - people I know, friends that I have, churches that I’ve been to all contribute. Some of the surfers have given me cash to help me out.
Who is one surfer who you’ve helped?
Last year for the Mundaka contest we were at raining, onshore Sopelana. I was standing on the beach and I had just caddied for Josh Kerr. He’d lost his heat and I felt bad for him. Dustin Barca came down and put his board next to me. He didn’t ask me to caddy for him and I started walking off after Kerrzy’s heat. And I thought I should hang around and be there for Dustin. I’d been speaking with him and he was having a hard time being away from his family and had hurt his back really badly or tweaked out his hip. He came in and was in agony. I helped him with his gear up to his car and after that I had a really good relationship with him. After that I saw that it was really important to be with them through those times when no one is there for them. He was thankful that I was there for him when it felt like he had no one, which was good.
How does it work with non-Christians?
The spiritual element of my role is really important but the religious side isn’t. Whatever faith they choose I will empower and encourage them. My directive is to help someone be a better person.
When he's not lending advice to troubled world tour surfers, Abe the ASP Chaplain works as a school teacher on the Gold Coast. Which is where he's honed this quality backhand bottom turn.
So you get people crossing faiths to confide in you?
Some of my best relationships have been guys that are agnostic or come from different faiths. I had a really good relationship with (Brazilian surfer and Muslim) Jihad (Khodr). We got along really well and it was hard not seeing him qualify for this year.
Do surfers talk enough about their problems?
We’re all blokes at the end of the day and we all have our issues with talking about how we feel. Especially when they’re away from their family and their mates are the one’s they’re competing against, so they can’t talk to them because they don’t want to be seen as weak.
Has surfing as a culture encouraged pros to be open about their problems?
The attitude has always been, “She’ll be right, it’s all good, go with the flow.” As it became more professional there is a lot more stress and money at stake. There was a time when you surfed for fun and that was all it was about. Now it is a career for these guys and they’ve grown up from grommets, and sponsored and competing for so long, it’s part of their life. Fifteen years ago it wasn’t as necessary as it is now.
Do you approach them or they come to you?
You can’t go up to talk to anyone and expect them to respect what you’re saying. You have to build up trust. When it comes down to it, they will talk to me when they want to. I don’t have an agenda, I’m not here to impress anyone. A lot of it is being true to myself. I have to make sure I’m not pretending to be something I’m not. You have to be of the scene but not in it. A lot of it is just your walk and how you act, whether at contests, in the surf or at the party. They make up in their own mind whether they’re gonna trust you.
What are the different extremes surfers will talk to you about?
Anything from how their relationships are going with girlfriends and wives to relationship break ups to their own faith journey. And then there are the temptations they come across, like the partying and that scene.
It’s interesting because surf culture has not always been aligned with Christian values.
Surfing has always had this sense of being spiritual. Surfing has a different feeling when you’re in the water to any other experience you have. At the same time, there’s temptation always. I’m not there to tell people what they can and can’t do. I’m there to help them if they hit the rocks. To pick them up and let them know it’s okay.
Do you battle temptation?
It’s at the back of my mind. Being away from your family can be hard when you’re travelling. Being away from my wife can be difficult. Just watching perfect waves go by and not be able to surf them. –
by Jed Smith (stabmag.com)
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terça-feira, 21 de setembro de 2010
Surf House - Guarujá
Check it out, in this documentary about the Marcos Siqueira, EX-Junkie(MARIJUANA) that, met Jesus, through of the "Surf House" also called (Christian Surfers Base) in Guaruja Town, Brazil.
The "Surf House" it was founded by the Brazilian National Director called Sérgio Busatto and Ruy.
Nowadays, a Lot of Guaruja Surfers, know the "Surf House" at Tombo Beach, in Guaruja Town, and everybody is invited.
More Info:
Rua Antonio Marques, 195 - Praia do Tombo-Guarujá-São Paulo,
Brasil-cep:11420-030 - Phone:55+13+3354-2298
Website: http://www.cristosalvaguaruja.com
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Jesus Surf Classic UK
The UK Jesus Surf Classic was held this past weekend in Croyde, Devon. The Surf Classic has become so large they have had to split off the longboard event as a stand alone contest. Phil Williams, Dave Renyard and team are stoked to have generations of surfers pass through this event, being impacted with the gospel along the way. Check out more info online at the CSUK website and read a full report on Surfers Village. Spare an extra thought for Phil Williams on September 23rd as he joins 3 others for a fundraising paddle attempt of the English Channel (40 km+!!) Learn more and support here.
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terça-feira, 31 de agosto de 2010
Skip Frye, le LongBoardeur plus influent de tous les Temps
<<| Le Surfeur/shaper le plus influent de tous les temps dans l'histoire du longboard...|>> Voilà comment <<| The Glide |>>, un livre sur l'histoire du LongBoard, presente Skip Frye. Quel hommage!
Skip Frye est l'un des surfeurs les plus motivés au monde. Debout avant l'aube, dans l'eau avant même que les autres réalisent qu'il y a la houle, il se donne à fond depuis 1958. Dans ses jours de gloire, il surfait en moyenne 5 heures par jour, 6 jours par semaine. Il suffit de faire le calcul pour se rendre compte qu'il a surfé plus de vagues que la plupart d'entre nous ne pourrons jamais en voir.Son ardeur a forcé le respect de surfeurs de tous âges.
Frye est le spécialiste de ce qu'on appelle le <<| Soul Surfing |>> , une technique élégante qui ne va pas à l'encontre de la vague mais la suit avec fluidité.
Si le Surf apportait la satisfaction absolue, Skip Frye n'aurait jamais eu besoin de se tourner vers autre chose. Mais, alors que sa connexion avec l'océan restait constante, sa vie n'avait rien d'une mer d'huile. Il a été tourmenté par les mêmes eaux tumultueuses qui nous touchent tous.
Il y a plusieurs dizaines d'années de cela, Frye s'est tourné vers Jésus-Christ et l'accepté comme Seigneur et Sauveur.
Cependant, Il a lutté pendant des années, ayant un pied dans ce monde et l'autre dans le Royaume de Dieu. Le grand changement dans sa vie s'est produit sur une plage déserte de la côte française, où il s'est enfim rendu compte que mêne le surf était une impasse sans le Seigneur.
<<| Je marchais le long de la plage et j'ai commencé à prier. Je me suis mis à pleurer comme un bébé,mais quand je suis retourné à ma chambre d'hôtel, j'étais différent. je surfe depuis longtemps et j'ai vu ce que l'océan peut faire. Maintenant j'ai passé assez de temps avec Jésus pour savoir ce qu'il fait! |>> dit Frye avec un sourire épanoui.
Skip Frye continue à surfer presque tous les jours, mais la chose la plus importante n'est plus seulement de surfer des vagues qui montent et disparaissent rapidement, mais de partager la Bonne Nouvelle de la vie éternelle avec Jésus-Christ.
<<| Venez auprès de moi.....et moi je vous donnerai le repos. |>>
Matthieu 11:28
Skip Frye at P B Point in the Spring of 1969. He had three prototype boards that he was testing: A flat bottom, a rolled bottom and one with a roll in the nose blending to flat in the tail. They were all 7'6. He was switching boards and fins and still catching more waves than anyone in the water. He'd even come in and sand on his fin occasionally.
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Skip Frye est l'un des surfeurs les plus motivés au monde. Debout avant l'aube, dans l'eau avant même que les autres réalisent qu'il y a la houle, il se donne à fond depuis 1958. Dans ses jours de gloire, il surfait en moyenne 5 heures par jour, 6 jours par semaine. Il suffit de faire le calcul pour se rendre compte qu'il a surfé plus de vagues que la plupart d'entre nous ne pourrons jamais en voir.Son ardeur a forcé le respect de surfeurs de tous âges.
Frye est le spécialiste de ce qu'on appelle le <<| Soul Surfing |>> , une technique élégante qui ne va pas à l'encontre de la vague mais la suit avec fluidité.
Skip Frye, One California Day.. on Vimeo.
Si le Surf apportait la satisfaction absolue, Skip Frye n'aurait jamais eu besoin de se tourner vers autre chose. Mais, alors que sa connexion avec l'océan restait constante, sa vie n'avait rien d'une mer d'huile. Il a été tourmenté par les mêmes eaux tumultueuses qui nous touchent tous.
Il y a plusieurs dizaines d'années de cela, Frye s'est tourné vers Jésus-Christ et l'accepté comme Seigneur et Sauveur.
Cependant, Il a lutté pendant des années, ayant un pied dans ce monde et l'autre dans le Royaume de Dieu. Le grand changement dans sa vie s'est produit sur une plage déserte de la côte française, où il s'est enfim rendu compte que mêne le surf était une impasse sans le Seigneur.
<<| Je marchais le long de la plage et j'ai commencé à prier. Je me suis mis à pleurer comme un bébé,mais quand je suis retourné à ma chambre d'hôtel, j'étais différent. je surfe depuis longtemps et j'ai vu ce que l'océan peut faire. Maintenant j'ai passé assez de temps avec Jésus pour savoir ce qu'il fait! |>> dit Frye avec un sourire épanoui.
Skip Frye continue à surfer presque tous les jours, mais la chose la plus importante n'est plus seulement de surfer des vagues qui montent et disparaissent rapidement, mais de partager la Bonne Nouvelle de la vie éternelle avec Jésus-Christ.
<<| Venez auprès de moi.....et moi je vous donnerai le repos. |>>
Matthieu 11:28
Skip Frye at P B Point in the Spring of 1969. He had three prototype boards that he was testing: A flat bottom, a rolled bottom and one with a roll in the nose blending to flat in the tail. They were all 7'6. He was switching boards and fins and still catching more waves than anyone in the water. He'd even come in and sand on his fin occasionally.
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